
1990 Bruno Giacosa
Barbaresco Gallina di Nieve
I really didn't expect much from
this wine---had it standing up like a bowling pin with another 6 or 8 bottles
that were felt to be history and just needed to be "pronounced". I just didn't
believe barbaresco was a wine style destined to last 20+ years.
First thing that amazed me was the
vibrant ruby color with no bricking. Cork was in great shape as well. These
things didn't stop me from taking a big swallow while in close proximity to the
sinek with the expectations of finding little residual fruit or
tannins-----which is why I nearly choked on that first taste----it was really
kicking!! The fruit in this wine is amazing! Clear, linear, focused sweet and
semi-ripe cherries with a long palate. A hint of minerals and a barely
detectable transition to perfectly balanced tannins with a soft breeze of
menthol and pine on the finish. Wines like this make you feel vindicated for
the effort it takes to cellar a wine this long and to keep from opening it
sooner. 98 points.
Ardeis in Seminole
PS-- for perspective I was in my
junior year of medical school when these grapes were
harvested.